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waiting in Suwarrow

December 15, 2012

We are still in Suwarrow. For more than a week already. Still no other boats.

With two depressions in the area we didn’t want to leave.
One became a cyclone, ‘Evan’, he’s around Samoa but moving towards Fiji by now. We would have sailed right into it!

Here the weather was surprisingly good. Sunny and a nice breeze. But as soon as the wind picked up there was too much swell at the main anchorage close to the rangerstation. So we moved the boat to the West, now we hide behind small ‘Manu Island’.
This is a great spot, very quiet, just at high tide it gets choppy as the waves crash over the reef. The island’s home to boobies, fregattes and small brown birds.
They are very noisy and very curious. Come very close and look at this weird floating island. But they don’t land.
We swam over and took a look, they breed in very low bushes, first we didn’t see them and nearly ran into one.
Those tiny, white, fluffy, funny looking booby chicks don’t make a sound, and the grown ups are not shy at all.
The female fregattes look like branches and don’t move, they have pretty brown faces. We felt like big clumsy intruders and left fast!

Our sharks didn’t follow us, here we have only one.
There are plenty of healthy corals but very few fish.
We still didn’t go diving, the water’s so clear and it’s only 12m deep.
But we fixed the compressor, the pressure gauge broke. First the one from the watermaker, now this one, weird, maybe that’s the Suwarrow gauge curse. And it was time to clean the carburetor. Now it works and we have flying oil again. Good thing it rained at night!

The anchor holds very good in a sandy patch, we put small buoys on the chain to keep it from chafing on the blocks, everything’s fine.
Strong wind (maybe up to 30 knots) we had only for one night, squalls, one whole day the wind was between 20 and 25 knots, but that was all we got from the cyclone. We were lucky!

The weatherforecast’s not too rosy. Now there’s wind from West to NW to North. Then moving back to West. Well, that’s where we want to go! NW and N would be great but not with 20 knots and 3m swell!
And in about 4 days the wind dies down again. But moves South, well, somehow we’ll make it to Fiji. Hopefully before the next depression arrives!

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